Entry 4: Training and My First Turtle

Training began on day one of our arrival and will last approximately 2 weeks. Each day we learn the specific protocols on the different species of turtle and what to do on each walk. We learned the stages of turtle nesting, how to deal with poachers, tourists and turtle guides and specific measures on tagging turtles and counting the tracks and eggs. After working with turtles in the past, some of this I already knew, but it was helpful learning a few phrases in Spanish to help me when speaking to turtle guides and poachers if necessary.

We walk a 5-mile stretch of beach split in two zones. Each night, a team patrols each zone from 8 p.m. – 12 a.m. and two teams walk 12-4 a.m. There are also teams that walk the zones beginning around 6 or 7 a.m. counting tracks and determining their species. The research assistants rotate which shifts they will take.

The beach is closed to tourists from 6 p.m. – 6 a.m. to allow the turtles to nest in peace, but turtle tours are allowed to access the beach from 8 p.m. – 12 a.m. This time frame is of extreme economic importance to the village of Tortuguero. Tourists pay to see these turtles lay their eggs, and as the largest Green turtle rookery in the world, there is an almost guaranteed chance to see turtles nesting, especially in July – the peak season for Green turtle nesting.

The beach we walk.

The program I joined is for Green turtles, but we still count other species, as well. The Leatherback nesting season is coming to a close, but the Hawksbill nesting season is at its peak. Although not very common on the beach, when we find tracks of this species, we disguise the tracks to hide them from poachers. Hawksbill turtles are highly prized for their shells, and are killed to make specific products. Typically when something is made of turtle shell, this is the species it comes from.

July is the peak season for greens, and we will easily get more than 100 turtles nesting on our 5-mile beach each night, but for now, its the occasional Green, Hawksbill and Leatherback.

Emma and Rob admiring Hawksbill tracks.

On the first night survey, we walked for 3 hours and saw a Leatherback finishing her nest and return to the water. In my 3 years of volunteering for turtles, I have never seen an adult sea turtle, let alone a Leatherback, the largest turtle species in the world. After she entered the water, we walked a few hundred meters and saw a Hawksbill return to the water, as well. The shin splits and exhausting late night walk were well worth it. Unfortunately, it is illegal for cameras to be on the beach at night, so there are no photos to enjoy.

On the second night survey, we witnessed a Leatherback digging its egg chamber and saw the complete process of laying the eggs and returning to the water. This was one of the most moving experiences of my life. It was so cool seeing such a prehistoric act right in front of me. These turtles have instinctively performed this process for millions of years unchanged. With this turtle, the research assistants got the chance to check the tags and get measurements on the turtle. I got to touch the leathery ‘shell,’ and see her lay roughly 75 tennis ball-sized eggs. With the torrential downpour on the return walk to the station, it was a memorable moment I’l remember for the rest of my life. After we checked records the next day, we found out this turtle was first tagged on this beach in 2003. She nested multiple times since then, including SIX TIMES in 2006.